Scale
Australia covers 7.69 million square kilometres — the sixth-largest country on earth, roughly the size of the continental United States or the whole of Europe. Perth to Sydney is 3,900 kilometres, about the distance from Lisbon to Moscow.
Yet only 27 million people live here, 86 percent of them in cities, almost all strung along a coastal ribbon. The consequence for travellers is simple: do not plan by the map. Australia is not a country you drive across in a fortnight.
Visas
- Everyone except New Zealanders needs a visa before arriving — including for transit.
- eVisitor (subclass 651) — free, for most European passport holders. Applied for online.
- ETA (subclass 601) — a small charge, for the UK, US, Japan, Singapore, Malaysia and others. Applied for through a mobile app.
- Both allow stays of up to three months per entry and remain valid for twelve months.
- Working Holiday visas (417 and 462) are open to applicants aged 18 to 30, or 35 for some nationalities.
Biosecurity — take this seriously
Australia runs the strictest border controls in the world for food, plants and animal products, because its isolated ecosystems have no defences against introduced pests.
Declare everything. Fruit, nuts, meat, dairy, honey, seeds, wooden items, and hiking boots with soil on them. Declaring costs nothing and is never penalised. Failing to declare draws an on-the-spot fine of up to 5,500 dollars and, for visitors, possible visa cancellation. The apple you forgot in your bag is a genuine problem.
Driving
- Drive on the left. Your national licence works if it is in English; otherwise carry a certified translation or an International Driving Permit.
- Limits are 50 km/h in towns and 100–110 on highways, enforced by cameras with no tolerance and heavy fines. Blood alcohol limit is 0.05.
- Distances: Sydney to Melbourne 880 km (nine hours), Sydney to Brisbane 920 km, Melbourne to Adelaide 730 km, Adelaide to Perth 2,700 km across the Nullarbor.
- Kangaroos are most active at dawn and dusk and cause many collisions. Avoid driving in the country between sunset and sunrise.
- In the outback: carry water, tell someone your route, and stay with the vehicle if you break down.
Getting around without a car
Domestic flights — Qantas, Virgin, Jetstar and Rex — are usually cheaper and always faster than driving between cities. The long-distance trains, the Indian Pacific (Sydney–Perth, 4,352 km, four days) and The Ghan (Adelaide–Darwin, 2,979 km, three days), are luxury experiences rather than transport, and priced accordingly.
When to go
The seasons are inverted: summer runs December to February, winter June to August.
- The south (Sydney, Melbourne, Tasmania, Adelaide) is best from December to February, though Melbourne can be cold in any month.
- The tropical north (Cairns, Darwin, Kakadu) is best from May to October — the dry season. The wet brings heat, floods and cyclones.
- The best compromise for a trip covering both is September to November or March to May.
Everyday details
- Currency: Australian dollar. Cards work everywhere; cash is rarely needed. Tipping is not expected.
- Time zones: three normally, but because only some states use daylight saving, summer produces five different local times.
- Sun: the UV index reaches extreme levels. "Slip, Slop, Slap" — a shirt, sunscreen, a hat — has been public health policy since 1981, and Australia still has the highest melanoma rate in the world.
- Power: 230 V, type I plugs. Bring an adapter.
- Phone: Telstra has by far the best coverage outside cities. An eSIM bought before arrival saves time.
- Emergency number: 000. Tap water is drinkable everywhere.
- Tax refund: the Tourist Refund Scheme returns the 10 percent GST on purchases over 300 dollars from one retailer within 60 days of departure. Claim at the airport with the goods and the receipt.